Apple Pancakes with Rum (German)

While dousing these apple pancakes in rum and setting them on fire is optional, it makes for a truly dramatic presentation. The recipe comes from food writer and former Gourmet editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl, who grew up eating a version of the dish at Lüchow's, a legendary German restaurant in New York.

2 Granny Smith or other tart cooking apples (15 oz), peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. lemon juice, freshly squeezed
½ stick (4 Tbsp.) unsalted butter, divided
¼ cup light brown sugar, packed
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
pinch nutmeg, freshly grated
3 large eggs
¾ cup (4 oz) all-purpose flour, unbleached
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
pinch kosher salt
1 cup whole milk
¼ cup dark rum or cognac (optional)

In a medium bowl, add the apples and lemon juice; toss to coat.

In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, melt 2 Tbsp. butter. When the foam begins to subside, stir in the brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Add the apples and cook until darkly caramelized and fragrant, 11-12 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs, then whisk in the flour, granulated sugar, and salt until smooth. Add the milk and continue whisking until a thin, smooth batter forms.

In a nonstick 8" skillet over medium heat, melt 1 tsp. butter. When the foam begins to subside, pour in ⅓ cup batter, tilting the skillet to coat the entire surface with batter and form a thin pancake. Cook until just set, about 2 minutes. Evenly distribute one-third of the apples over the pancake, then pour another ⅓ cup batter on top, tilting the skillet to coat the surface and the apples with batter. Cook until the edges of the fresh batter have begun to set, 1-2 minutes, then use two wide, offset spatulas to flip the pancake. Continue cooking until the bottom is evenly golden brown, 1-2 minutes more, then turn out onto a large plate. Sprinkle generously with granulated sugar, then roll the pancake up like a jelly roll. Sprinkle with more granulated sugar, and if desired, drizzle with a few drops of lemon juice. Repeat with the remaining batter and apples to make a total of 3 rolled pancakes.

If desired, you can flame your pancakes: In the skillet used to cook the apples, add the rum and remaining 1 Tbsp. butter; warm over medium heat. Add the pancakes, spoon the rum mixture over the top, and remove from the heat. Working quickly and carefully, use a gas lighter or a long match to set the pancakes on fire. Shake the skillet gently until the flame goes out, then transfer the pancakes to a large plate. Serve warm.

Makes 6 servings.