Scones (Irish)

In Ireland, tea and scones are synonymous with life itself. Scone is a Scottish word derived from the Dutch schoonbrot, which in turn comes from the German schönbrot. A startling number of the ones I tried on a recent trip to London were hardly schön—they resembled fatty fieldstones. What you usually find masquerading as scones in this country might better be called by the name of another British treat: rock cakes. No wonder they smother them in clotted cream and preserves. The Irtish scone is traditionally only served with butter, gobs of it actually. I use Irish butter. (Kerrygold is the brand most easy to track down in North America). It makes a world of difference.

There are a few things all the Irish people I spoke to agreed on about scones: they are best served freshly baked, warm from the oven, with butter, homemade preserves, honey, and even some cream. No one seemed particular about the shape or the time of day best for a scone. Sultana (raisin) or plain scones for breakfast, savoury scones with soup at lunch, and sweet scones at teatime.

Sure, these scones are more biscuit-like than what you might expect from a traditional Irish scone, but what I learned is that there are infinite definitions of what a real Irish scone is. The memory of those very first fluffy dream-cloud scones I had when I sat down to my first Irish meal is so strong that, to me, these are now the most true Irish scones. Slathered with unsalted butter, honey, and a pinch of sea salt, and I’m pretty much transported to another place right here in my Canadian kitchen.

2 cups all-purpose flour, unbleached
1 Tbsp. baking powder
2 tsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. fine sea salt
4 Tbsp. Irish Kerrygold unsalted butter, at room temperature
½-¾ cup milk, cream, or a combination

Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 400°F (200°C/180°C fan, Gas Mark 6). Line a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a Silpat and place it in the oven while it heats.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt into a large bowl. Use your fingertips to work the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture just holds together. Working the mixture as little as possible, add ½ cup milk and mix until it forms into a soft, slightly sticky ball. Add more milk if needed to reach desired consistency.

Place the dough on a very lightly floured work surface. Using a floured rolling pin, gently roll the dough to a 1" thick slab. Slice the dough into triangles with a floured knife or bench scraper, or dip a biscuit cutter in flour and cut out the individual scones.

Remove the hot baking sheet from the oven and place the scones on it. Bake 8 minutes. Flip the scones and bake until just barely brown, 4-6 minutes more. Serve with butter, preserves, and freshly whipped cream.

Makes 8-10 (1½") scones.

Cook's Notes:

• To reheat leftover scones: Warm them at 350°F for 2-3 minutes or until warmed through.
• Freezing scones: Wrap the completely cooled scones in plastic wrap, then place them in a zip-top bag or freezer-safe storage container. To reheat, thaw at room temperature in the plastic wrap, then unwrap and reheat as above at 350°F.

Variations:

• Herb: Add a few tablespoons chopped fresh thyme, rosemary, chives or sage to the dry mixture.
• Cheese: Add ½ cup grated cheddar or Parmesan cheese to the dry mixture. Brush the tops with beaten egg or cream and sprinkle with more grated cheese.
• Currant: Add ½  cup currants (or raisins) to the dry mixture.
• Chocolate: Increase the sugar to 2 Tbsp., add 4 oz chopped semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate, and sprinkle each with a pinch raw sugar before baking.