Blackberry Jam (Bay Leaf)

Lemon zest and juice add brightness to this blackberry jam, while bay leaves contribute a rich aroma. Reduce the amount of seeds in the jam by pressing half of it through a sieve and then stirring it back into the pot. Blackberries are especially delicious when transformed into a spread; if you add a bay leaf, a very subtle flavor change occurs, and the spoonfuls get bigger as they are scooped out of jars onto toast.

3 lb fresh blackberries
4½ cups sugar
1 lemon zest, freshly grated
4½ tsp. lemon juice, freshly squeezed
pinch coarse sea salt
1 or 2 dried bay leaves

Place a few small plates in the freezer. Stir together berries, sugar, lemon zest and juice, salt, and bay leaves in a large, heavy stockpot. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar and mashing lightly with a potato masher. Skim foam from surface. Cook, stirring more frequently as jam thickens, until it is the consistency of very loose jelly, 10-11 minutes. Remove pot from heat.

Press about half of the jam through a medium sieve; discard seeds. Return strained jam to pot, and stir until combined. Return to a boil.

Remove a plate from freezer, and drop a spoonful of jam on it. Return to freezer for 1-2 minutes, then gently nudge edge of jam with a finger. If jam is ready, it should hold its shape. If jam is too thin and spreads out, return to a boil, testing every minute, until done. Remove bay leaves, and discard. Spoon hot jam into hot sterilized jars, and cover immediately with sterilized lids.

Makes about 4 cups.