Cheese Fondue (French Fondue Savoyarde)

The origins of the cheese fondue can be found in Switzerland, France (Rhone Alps) and Italy (Piedmont and Aosta Valley). The earliest known recipe for a fondue as we know it today was found in Zurich in a book published in 1699. Not surprisingly the Fondue Savoyarde contains cheeses from the Haute Savoie and Savoie regions of the Rhone Alps. These are typically Comté, Beaufort, Reblochon, Abondance or Tomme de Savoie (typically 3 of these 5 cheeses are used). The word fondue is a French word meaning melted which is derived from the verb Fondre (to melt). A cheese fondue is normally cooked on a portable stove brought to the table to create a sociable meal of dipping pieces of bread on long forks into the delicious melted cheese and wine mixture. Tradition has it that there are forfeits given to those losing their bread in the fondue pot; if a man loses his bread he buys the next drinks and if a woman loses hers she must kiss her neighbours. The local Savoie wines are used in the fondue and are a very good accompaniment. In its traditional sense, "fondue" refers specifically to dipping food into melted cheese, though it's come to be colloquialized as any dish in which food is dipped into a pot of hot liquid. Fondue Savoyarde is one of the most famous dishes to come from the Savoie region, which lies at the heart of the French Alps and is home to many of France's most fashionable ski resorts. The food here is rich and hearty - perfect for capping off a day on the slopes. The secret to the perfect fondue is to use high-quality grated cheese for melting. For the bread, choose artisan bread, such as a good-quality sourdough. The chewier the bread, the better it will hold the melted cheese more successfully than a cheaper baguette.

1 clove garlic, halved
2 cups Savoyard or other dry white wine
2 cups (8 oz) Comté or Abondance cheese, coarsely grated
2 cups (8 oz) Beaufort or Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated
1 cup (4 oz) Reblochon or Tomme de Savoie cheese, coarsely grated
pinch ground nutmeg
pinch ground white pepper
1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, unbleached
¼ cup Kirsch or sour cherry brandy

To Serve:
1-2 loaves bread, cut into 1" bite-sized cubes

Rub the inside of a saucepan with the cut side of the garlic, doing so thoroughly to transfer the flavour of the garlic onto the pan. Discard the garlic.

Add the wine to the saucepan and bring it to a gentle, rolling boil. Reduce the heat, so that the wine is just simmering.

In a medium bowl, add the cheeses, followed by the nutmeg, white pepper and flour. Mix well and add to the wine in small batches, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until melted and smooth. If you find the cheese is sticking, lower the heat.

Keeping the heat low to medium, continue cooking - never boiling - the fondue for 15 minutes until it has thickened.

Light the fondue burner to warm the pot.

Once thickened, add the Kirsch, stir, and cook for 1 minute longer.

Transfer the fondue by pouring into a fondue pot set over a low flame. Provide each guest with a long fork and serve your hot, thick fondue with the cubed bread.

When eating the fondue, it is best to keep the fondue moving, so every time you dip, give it a stir using a figure eight motion.

If properly heated and kept at a consistent temperature, a cheese fondue will create a toasty crust on the inside walls and bottom of the fondue pot which can be eaten like a chip once the fondue pot is emptied. Using a fork, scrape the crusted cheese and enjoy.

Optional: Wear a beret and listen-a Jacques Brel album. Assess penalties for losing bread in the fondue (buy the next round of drinks, kiss the person next to you, etc...).

Makes 6 servings.

Cook's Notes:

• If the fondue gets too thick, particularly after it's been sitting for a while, add a few Tbsp. of white wine and stir to thin out the mixture.
• The alcohol in the fondue is key to lower the boiling point of the cheese, so the proteins don't curdle. Take care not to heat the mixture too high and reach the boiling point.

What to drink: Same wine used to make the fondue.

Dessert: Savoy Cake, a specialty from the same region as the fondue.