Cheese Fondue (Swiss Kaesefondue Fribourgeois)

Fondue Fribourgeois comes from the Canton de Fribourg, in Switzerland, home of the Gruyère and Vacherin Cheeses. Most people have tried to innovate, modify, change or alter this simple and traditional fondue. And they have all failed. In failing to stick to the basics they tried to kill the legendary Swiss dish. But this recipe will ensure it survives. Fondue means molten, they meant it to be molten cheese only. No "deal breakers" like tomato, champignons, truffles or tourist-like ingredients. A traditional Swiss recipe adheres strictly to tradition, proving that newer doesn't always mean better. This classic Swiss recipe calls for a blend of Gruyère (fondue's dutiful workhorse) and the more pungent, creamier Vacherin Fribourgeois. (If you can't find Vacherin, you can use just use twice the amount of Gruyère, or sub in something semi-soft and a little stinky, like a good Fontina.) The fastidious technique is the soul of this recipe: you start by rubbing the inside of the pot with a crushed clove garlic, add and warm white wine and then gradually work in the cheese so you get a smooth texture. Nutmeg, pepper, lemon juice, and a shot of Kirsch bring the molten cheese and wine to life, and a touch of cornstarch thickens the mixture and keeps it from breaking. This is a loose fondue, clinging gently to whatever you dip in it; if you like yours more substantial, just stir in a little extra cornstarch, thinned with a few drops of wine.

1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
dry white wine, Fendant du Valais, Languedoc, Rhone, etc (400 mL)
14 oz Gruyère cheese, preferably aged, cubed or shredded
14 oz Vacherin Fribourgeois, cubed
1 pinch nutmeg, freshly grated
2 pinches black pepper, freshly ground
1 tsp. lemon juice, freshly squeezed
1 shot Kirsch (cherry brandy)
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
day old bread torn in 1" pieces, for dipping

Rub the garlic around the inside of a ceramic or heavy saucepan, then remove the pieces, just leaving the "taste" of it. Add the wine and warm it over low heat. Start by SLOWLY adding the cheese..and stir vigorously, but slowly, IN ONE DIRECTION only. The cheese will start to melt.

When the molten cheese starts becomes uniform in consistency, add the nutmeg, pepper, and lemon juice.

Stir together the cornstarch and the Kirsch (IMPORTANT). Add to the fondue, to give it viscosity. This is an important step. The secret is: if the cornstarch is not diluted in the Kirsch, as it hits the cheese it will coagulate and create little "balls" in the cheese. Then you might as well try to cook something else.

You are done. If the fondue is too liquid, add more cornstarch, mixed with a few drops of water. If too thick, add more wine.

Cut the bread in pieces (french baguette or whole wheat bread, or both) and enjoy it. Remember not to drink water with the fondue. Only wine or hot tea. Fondue experts say that water will make the cheese lump up into a ball in the stomach. Recent critics have discovered that this is a myth, but I have chosen to ignore them and enjoy my wine with the fondue.

Another tradition is to swirl your fondue fork in figure eights, and if your bread should drop from the fork, you have to kiss the person next to you.

Makes 4 servings.