Ulster Fry (Ulster)

The Ulster Fry is a slightly more elaborate Northern Irish version of the full Irish breakfast - or, as it is fondly known in some quarters, the "cardiac special" - offered all over the island, and probably eaten these days almost as often at midday as for the morning meal. The exact constituents of this extremely, well, hearty meal vary from county to county and even from house to house. Small quartered mushrooms, cooked in butter or bacon fat, are sometimes added; lamb kidneys occasionally join the other meats or substitute for one or more of them; scones may also be halved and fried. Baker Robert Ditty, of Castledawson, County Derry, says that in modest traditional homes, the Ulster Fry didn't include sausages or puddings, because people didn't have the equipment to make them, whereas they could always cure their own bacon. Ditty, who includes North American-style streaky bacon as well as Irish bacon when he constructs an Ulster fry, has strong ideas about the order and methods of cooking the ingredients, which I pass along below. (He adds, "People who throw soda bread and potato bread into a deep-fat fryer should be strangled.").

In the North of Ireland, locals treat themselves to this enormous breakfast on the weekends. The fried breads make it unique. Soda bread and potato farls are cooked in reserved bacon fat making them golden and crispy. Served alongside Irish bacon, sausage, black pudding, tomato and egg - you won't need to eat again for the rest of the day.

2 slices Irish bacon, preferably Galtee's sliced cured pork loin, Tommy Moloney's mild-cured (not smoked or back rashers), or Donnelly's
1 tomato, halved (in season only)
3 small Irish-style breakfast sausages, preferably Galtee's or Winston's
2 (¼"/1.25 cm) slices black pudding, preferably Galtee's
2 (¼"/1.25 cm) slices white pudding, preferably Galtee's or Donnelly's
1 soda farl, halved crosswise
2 potato bread farls
1 Tbsp. Canola or sunflower oil
2 eggs

Preheat oven to 200°F (95°C).

Fry the bacon over medium heat in a large skillet, preferably cast-iron. When done on one side, tip the pan slightly to distribute the bacon fat, then add the Irish bacon and tomato halves (if using), skin side down, to the skillet.

When the bacon is crisp on both sides, the Irish bacon is lightly cooked, and the tomatoes are soft, remove from the skillet. Set aside, covered with foil and set in the oven keep warm.

Fry the sausages, black and white pudding in the same skillet until lightly browned on all sides, then add them to the other cooked ingredients.

While the sausages and puddings are frying, heat a small dry skillet, preferably cast-iron, over medium heat. When you've removed the sausages and puddings from the large skillet, dip both sides of the soda farl and fadge pieces in the fat in the pan. Transfer them to the dry skillet and fry until crisp on both sides, turning once. Add them to the cooked meats and tomato.

Wipe out the large skillet, add a little oil, and fry the eggs over medium heat until done.

Assemble everything on a serving platter and add the eggs. Serve with a strong cup of tea.

Makes 1 serving