Meatballs (Dutch Bitterballen)
Despite their name, Bitterballen aren't at all bitter but rather meant to be eaten alongside "bitters" - in the past that meant beverages like Jenever and nowadays it's simply beer. Usually a food you find in bars and cafés, these little fried morsels are a staple of Dutch cuisine and a beloved snack. A smaller, rounder version of croquettes, these meatballs typically contain meat ragoût and are often served on a plate of tasty fried finger foods, called bittergarnituur. Bitterballen play an important part in feeding the crowds that attend bars post-work and pre-dinner, but have become ubiquitous and might be served at any time. Mustard to dip them in, cubes of Gouda, and perhaps some small egg rolls or other fatty fried companions compose the plate of snacks. But bitterballen always steal the show.
The secret to bitterballen lies in the beef. Most meatballs are made with ground beef, but these start with stewing beef that is gently cooked with spices until super tender and moist. The resulting broth is then used to season the meat and roux-based mixture, and by allowing it to cool off properly, the beef hardens enough to make firm balls that are breaded and fried to golden perfection.
Our recipe might be a little time-consuming but if you have an eye for detail, they are not difficult to make. The reward makes the effort worth your while. Besides, the meatballs freeze nicely. Make larger batches and freeze them before frying to have at hand any time some fried food is in order. There are countless variations on the theme, from veal to vegetable, and from shrimp to cheese, but this beef version is a classic. Serve with smooth mild mustard, such as Dijon, and a pint of beer.
Meat:
2 lbs stewing beef, cubed
2-3 qts water, enough to cover the beef
1 large onion, quartered
½ tsp. black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
2 cloves
2-3 sprigs fresh thyme
Roux-Based Mixture:
4 oz butter
2 shallots, chopped
1 cup all-purpose flour, unbleached
2 cups milk
2 cups beef stock, from cooking the meat
5 tsp. unsweetened gelatin powder
½ cup water
kosher or sea salt
black pepper, fresh ground
ground nutmeg
1 bunch flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
Breading:
½ cup all-purpose flour, unbleached
1-2 large eggs
4 cups breadcrumbs
Frying:
3-4 cups vegetable oil
For Serving:
Dijon mustard, to taste
Cook the Beef:
Place the beef in a large pan with just enough water to cover the meat. Bring it to a simmer. Skim off any foam that forms. Add the onion, peppercorns, bay leaf, cloves, and thyme.
Bring back to a boil, reduce the heat, and let simmer for 2-3 hours, or until the meat is very tender. Remove from heat and allow to cool off.
Strain the meat, reserving the cooking liquid. Discard the onions and herbs.
When the meat is cool, cut it into small cubes. Set aside.
Make the Roux-Based Mixture:
In a large skillet, make a roux by adding the butter and allowing it to melt. Add the shallots and flour, stirring vigorously.
Add the milk to the skillet. Stir well and add 2 cups of the reserved beef cooking liquid.
Let the mixture come to a boil, reduce the heat, and let it simmer for 30 minutes, stirring frequently.
Dissolve the gelatin in ½ cup cold water and add it to the simmering mixture, stirring regularly.
Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Add the chopped parsley, Dijon mustard, and the reserved diced beef, mixing well.
Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight, or chill for at least 4-6 hours.
Shape and Fry the Beef Balls:
Roll heaped tsp. of the chilled beef mixture into neat, even-sized balls - about 60 in total.
Bread them twice by rolling each ball first in flour, then in the beaten eggs, and lastly in the breadcrumbs. Dip each breaded ball again in the eggs and roll for the last time in the breadcrumbs. Repeat the process until all meatballs are breaded.
Heat the oil to 350°F (180°C).
Fry the bitterballen in batches until golden.
Remove from fryer and drain on paper towel.
Serve them hot with Dijon mustard.
Makes 20 servings.