Pancetta Ziti (Parmesan Mozzarella)

When the mercury drops, we make baked pasta dishes on repeat for cozy Sunday suppers. If you’re new to cooking these large-format classics, learning how to make baked ziti is a good place to start. It’s simpler and more forgiving than lasagna but still delivers comforting bites full of pulls of mozzarella and those much coveted crunchy corners.

This baked ziti recipe is designed to stay saucy. While many call for ricotta, it has a tendency to get dry and grainy when baked, so we’ve swapped it for a creamy Parmesan béchamel. And in place of meatballs, ground turkey, or Italian sausage, we prefer a bit of pancetta, which adds a salty and porky hit to homemade tomato sauce without distracting from the overall composition.

Despite this recipe’s name, ziti pasta isn’t mandatory. Any short, tube shape (like rigatoni, paccheri, or penne pasta) will do. Just be sure to cook it in a large pot of salted water until it is shy of al dente, since it will continue to cook in the oven. Finally, don’t skip out on broiling the whole baked ziti before serving, it’s key to a perfectly browned top.

Like many baked pasta recipes, this one is hearty enough that it needs little accompaniment at the table beyond a big green salad (try this one with an Italian seasoning-inspired dressing) or some fresh veggies and perhaps some garlic bread. Refrigerate the leftovers and enjoy them all week long.

2 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, unbleached
2¼ cups whole milk, slightly warmed
2½ cups Parmesan cheese, freshly grated, divided (~ 6 oz)
sea salt
black pepper, freshly ground
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 oz pancetta (Italian bacon), finely chopped
1 large onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 (28 oz) can + 1 (14 oz) can whole peeled tomatoes
¼ cup fresh basil, chopped
1 lb ziti, penne, or rigatoni
1 lb fresh mozzarella, cut into ½” pieces

Heat butter in a medium saucepan over medium until foamy. Sprinkle flour over and cook, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Gradually whisk in warm milk. Bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, whisking often, until béchamel is thickened to about the consistency of heavy cream and no longer feels grainy when rubbed between your fingers, 8-10 minutes (thoroughly cooking the mixture ensures a creamy sauce and eliminates any raw flour flavour). Remove from heat and add 2 cups Parmesan, whisking until cheese is melted and sauce is smooth. Set aside.

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high. Cook pancetta, stirring often, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add onion, garlic and red pepper flakes; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until onion is golden and soft, 8-10 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, until slightly darkened, about 2 minutes.

Add whole peeled tomatoes, crushing with your hands as you go and season with salt and pepper. Bring sauce to a simmer and cook, stirring often, until slightly reduced and flavours have melded, 20-25 minutes. Let cool slightly, then transfer to a blender; pulse until mostly smooth (or use an immersion blender and purée directly in pot). Stir in basil and season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350°F (180°C/160°C fan, Gas Mark 4).

Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente, about 5 minutes (the pasta will continue to cook in the oven); drain.

Transfer reserved béchamel to a large bowl; add pasta and mozzarella and toss to combine. Add all but 1 cup tomato sauce and gently fold mixture a few times, leaving streaks of béchamel.

Transfer pasta mixture to a 9x13” or other 3 qts baking dish, dollop with remaining tomato sauce and scatter remaining Parmesan over pasta. Bake until mozzarella is melted and sauce is bubbling around the edges, 15-20 minutes.

Heat broiler. Broil until pasta and cheese are dark brown in spots, about 4 minutes. Let pasta sit 5 minutes before serving.

Makes 6 Servings.