Pasta alla Pummarola (Italian Neapolitan Tomato Sauce)

The mother of all Neapolitan tomato sauces is pummarola (literally, “tomato” in the vernacular), though not surprisingly in this most chaotic of places, no one agrees on the recipe. Some versions are as simple as a fast sauté of olive oil, garlic, pelati, and a scrap of basil — simple but heavenly with the Vesuvius tomatoes. The most aromatic sauce begins with a soffritto (sauté) of carrot, celery, onion and parsley. In season, fresh tomatoes rule. Otherwise, pelati are used gratefully. Bottled are preferred, but canned will do. On its own, this pummarola is fruity and fragrant — what spaghetti, linguine or other dried pasta shapes should wear. As a foundation for other sauces, it exalts whatever else it’s stirred with (seafood, for example). In all, it’s as fine an expression of Italian tomato sauce as you’ll find.

Pummarola is well suited to the texture of dried pasta, both strand types and short cuts. Spaghetti and linguine are especially compatible with it. It has a pleasant chunky texture, or a rich silkiness when passed through a sieve or a food mill. When sieved, it can be used as a foundation for other sauces wherever a prepared tomato sauce is called for, or for salsa bolognese and the whole tribe of ragùs.

Sauce:
2½ cups (28 oz) canned, peeled plum tomatoes in juice, seeded and chopped. (D.O.P San Marzanos are preferred.)
4 Tbsp. olive oil, or more, to taste
2 large cloves garlic, crushed
1 small red or yellow onion, minced
1 medium stalk celery, including leaves, minced
1 small carrot, minced
2 Tbsp. fresh flat-leaf parsley, minced
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
small handful fresh basil, chopped
½ tsp. sea salt, or to taste
black or white pepper, freshly cracked

Pasta:
1 lb long pasta (spaghetti, fettucine, linguine, etc.)
4 Tbsp. sea salt

Garnish:
Parmesan cheese, grated
basil leaves

Drain the tomatoes in a colander, reserving their juice; chop and set aside.

In an ample saucepan over medium-low heat, warm 3 Tbsp. of the olive oil. Stir in the garlic, onion, celery, carrot and parsley, and sauté until the vegetables are completely soft, about 12 minutes. Add the tomato paste and stir until it’s coppery-colored, about 3 minutes. Then add the tomatoes and their juice, cover partially, and simmer, stirring occasionally, gently until thickened, about 45 minutes.

Stir in the basil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and blend in the remaining 1 Tbsp. olive oil, or more to taste.

In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the pasta until al dente (about 8 minutes). Add drained pasta to sauce and let sit for a few minutes to absorb the juices.

Serve with grated cheese and basil leaves if desired.

Makes 4 servings.

Cook's Notes: If a smooth sauce is desired, take the pan off the stove when it’s cooked and allow it to cool somewhat. Position a food mill over a clean saucepan and pass the sauce through it, being sure to press out as much of the pulp as possible. Place over medium heat just long enough to heat through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining tablespoon olive oil.

Attention: Don’t purée the sauce in a food processor; we don’t want to break the seeds.

Make Ahead: The sauce can be made 4-5 days in advance of use and stored tightly covered in the refrigerator, or it can be frozen for up to 3 months. Whether storing it in the refrigerator or freezer, leave out the remaining 1 Tbsp. olive oil. Stir it into the sauce after reheating.