Pasta with Lamb Ragù (Cazini)

This simple half-moon shape starts with a circular piece of dough, which is filled with a lightly sweetened ricotta mixture laced with cinnamon and nutmeg. The spices probably came from the trade routes from Venice or Genoa, or an early invasion of the Moors to the region. The simple lamb ragù, on the other hand, is a reflection of the poverty of the Basilicata. The region's rocky, rugged landscape is ideal for raising sheep but not much else.

Cazini Dough:
2¼ cups + 1 tsp. semola flour (300 g)
3 large eggs
1½ tsp. extra-virgin olive oil (5 g)

Filling and Topping:
1¾ cups + 2 Tbsp. ricotta
½ cup + 2 Tbsp. Pecorino Romano, grated
1 Tbsp. + 1 tsp. sugar
1 generous pinch cinnamon, freshly ground
1 generous pinch nutmeg, freshly ground
1 large egg
pinch sea salt

Ragù:
2 cups whole peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, coarsely puréed
4 cloves garlic, divided
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 sprig fresh marjoram
1½ tsp. fresh sage, thinly sliced
1½ tsp. fresh rosemary, minced
¼ tsp. crushed red chile, coarsely ground
1½ tsp. fennel pollen, ground (optional)
½ cup + 2 Tbsp. yellow onion, minced
½ cup celery, minced
½ cup fennel, fronds removed, minced
¼ cup carrot, minced
1¼ lb ground lamb
sea salt
black pepper, freshly ground
¼ cup + 2 Tbsp. red wine
2 cups chicken stock

Garnish:
Pecorino Romano

Make the Dough:
On a clean work surface, mound the flour. Create a deep well in the center and add the eggs and olive oil. Using a fork, beat the eggs and oil. Then, starting from the interior wall of the well, gradually incorporate the flour into the wet ingredients as if scrambling eggs, until a thick batter-like consistency forms. Use a bench knife or bowl scraper to cut and fold the remaining flour into the center until a shaggy mass forms; press it to form a dough.

With clean dry hands, move the dough and any remaining scraps and flour to a clean work surface. Sift flour lightly over the board, then knead the dough until semi-smooth, about 3 minutes. Scrape the work surface of dried flakes and continue to knead dough gently until it is smooth and supple and springs back when poked, and most or all of the flour is incorporated, about 15 minutes more. (If dough is dry and tight, wrap in plastic and let rest 5-10 minutes before continuing to knead.) Wrap the ball tightly in plastic and refrigerate at least 1 hour or ideally 1 day.

Make the Filling:
Set a fine sieve over a medium bowl. Add the ricotta, then press it through the sieve with a spatula. Add the ½ cup Pecorino, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and egg; season with salt. Mix thoroughly, then pack into a piping bag fitted with a round tip, and refrigerate until needed, up to 3 days.

Make the Ragù:
Crush 1 clove garlic. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, add the tomatoes, clove garlic, 1 Tbsp. olive oil, and marjoram; bring to a boil. Lower the heat and gently simmer until slightly reduced, 12-15 minutes. Set aside.

Mince the remaining 3 cloves garlic. In a large pot over medium heat, add the remaining oil. Once hot, add the garlic, sage, rosemary, crushed red pepper, and fennel pollen if using; cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the onion, celery, fennel, and carrot and raise the heat to medium-high; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 12-15 minutes. Stir in the lamb, breaking it up into small pieces; season with salt and pepper.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until no pink remains, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and cook until reduced slightly, 2-3 minutes. Remove the garlic and marjoram from the tomato sauce and discard. Add the tomato mixture and the chicken stock to the lamb; bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook until the meat is tender and the sauce is reduced by half, about 3 hours.

Shape the Cazini:
Using a mattarello or rolling pin, roll out the dough as thinly as possible into a large circle at least 20" in diameter. Using a 2¾" biscuit or round cookie cutter, cut out rounds as close as possible to one another. Pipe scant 1 tsp. balls of filling into the center of each, then fold one side of each round over the filling to cover. Press down firmly and all over the edges to seal well. (If inside edges of pasta do not stick together easily, spritz very lightly with water from a spray bottle.)

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Meanwhile, reheat the lamb ragù if needed. Gently add the cazini to the boiling water and stir immediately. Cook until the pasta floats to the top and is al dente, 1½-2 minutes.

Remove with a spider or slotted spoon to a serving bowl or platter. Add 2 Tbsp. pecorino and some spoonfuls of ragù to taste; toss gently to coat, adding 1-2 Tbsp. of pasta water if needed to loosen the sauce.

Garnish with more pecorino and serve immediately.