Pastry Puffs with Cream and Chocolate Ganache (French Religieuse)

Religieuse is a traditional French pastry meaning "nun". Its shape is made up of two choux buns as it bears resemblance to a plump nun in a habit. The name of the pastry was attested from 1929 but it is thought that religieuse was created in the mid-19th century. Similar to an éclair, a religieuse is a one of the French’s favourite pastries. Both are buns are filled with crème pâtissière (confectioner’s custard) with coffee, chocolate or vanilla flavours. Each case is covered in a ganache of the same flavour as the crème pâtissière and joined with a piped buttercream, referring to a ruffle (une fraise in French). Today, many pâtissiers (pastry chefs) are working on new variations of religieuses. It is not uncommon in Paris to find rose, violet, blackcurrant, passionfruit or caramel flavoured religieuses in their window fronts.

Pastry Puffs (Choux Buns):
2¼ oz butter, cut into cubes (60 g)
2½ oz plain all-purpose flour, unbleached (75 g)
2 eggs, lightly beaten

Crème Pâtissière:
18 oz whole milk (500 mL)
1 vanilla pod, seeds only
6 medium yolks
2½ oz caster sugar (75 g)
¾ oz cornflour (20 g)
1 oz all-purpose flour, unbleached (25 g)

Chocolate Ganache:
5 oz heavy cream (150 mL)
7 oz plain chocolate (around 36% cocoa solids) broken into pieces (200 g)

Collar:
5 oz double cream (150 mL)

Special Equipment:
piping bag with a ¾" (1.5 cm) plain nozzle
a small star nozzle
a long thin nozzle
a skewer

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C, Gas Mark 7). Line a baking tray with baking parchment and draw onto it eight circles 2" (5 cm) wide and another eight circles 1" (2.5 cm) wide.

For the Pastry Puffs:
Put the butter in a heavy-based saucepan with 5 oz (150 mL) of water and heat over a medium heat until the butter melts. Bring the mixture to the boil and then immediately remove from the heat.

Quickly tip in the all-purpose flour, unbleached. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a soft ball. Return to the heat and cook over a low heat for 3-5 minutes, stirring constantly.

Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly. Gradually add the eggs, beating well between each addition to form a smooth, shiny paste. Spoon the mixture into a piping bag fitted with a ½" (1.5 cm) plain nozzle.

Pipe round discs onto the baking tray in the marked circles and, using a damp finger, smooth over the top of each disc. Bake in the centre of the oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C, Gas Mark 5) and cook for a further 10-15 minutes.

Remove the choux buns from the oven and pierce each bun with a skewer to allow the steam to escape. Return to the oven for 4-5 minutes to dry out. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack.

For the Crème Pâtissière:
Pour the milk and vanilla seeds into a heavy-based pan and bring gradually to the boil. Remove from the heat and leave to cool for 30 seconds. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and caster sugar until pale, then whisk in the cornflour and all-purpose flour. Pour the vanilla-infused milk onto the eggs, whisking continuously, then pour back into the pan.

Bring back to the boil, whisking continuously over a medium heat and cook for one minute. Pour the crème pâtissière into a bowl. Cover the surface with cling film to prevent a skin from forming and leave to cool. Transfer to the fridge to chill.

For the Chocolate Ganache:
Bring the cream to the boil in a small pan. Remove from the heat. Add the chocolate and stir until melted and shiny. Transfer to a bowl and leave to cool. Transfer the fridge to chill until the ganache has thickened to a spreadable consistency.

For the Assembly:
Spoon the cold crème pâtissière into a piping bag fitted with a long thin nozzle (or alternatively you can use a jam syringe). Fill the choux buns with the crème pâtissière.

Dip the filled buns into the chocolate ganache to coat half-way up the sides. Sit the small buns on top of the larger buns.

For the Collars:
Whip the cream in a mixing bowl until soft peaks form when the whisk is removed from the bowl. Spoon the cream into a piping bag fitted with a small star nozzle. Pipe lines of cream around the join where the small bun sits on top of the large bun to form a collar.