Three Chile Harissa

This irresistibly smoky-spicy condiment lasts for a month and perks up everything from scrambled eggs to lamb chops.

15 dried chiles de árbol
2 dried guajillo chiles
1 dried ancho chile
1 Tbsp. cumin seeds
1½ tsp. coriander seeds
3 cloves garlic, smashed
2 Tbsp. lemon juice, freshly squeezed
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 tsp. tomato paste
1½ tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika
1 tsp. sea salt
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

Place árbol, guajillo and ancho chiles in a large heatproof measuring glass. Pour boiling water over to submerge, cover with plastic wrap and let sit until chiles are very pliable and cool enough to handle, 15-20 minutes. Drain; remove stems and seeds and discard (wear gloves for this part if you have them).

Toast cumin and coriander in a dry small skillet over medium-low heat, tossing constantly, until very fragrant, about 3 minutes.

Transfer to a food processor, add garlic and pulse until spices are broken up and garlic forms a paste. Add chiles and pulse until chiles form a coarse paste. Add lemon juice, vinegar, tomato paste, paprika and salt and process until mostly smooth but mixture still has a little texture. With the motor running, stream in ½ cup oil. Process until oil is incorporated.

Transfer harissa to a bowl. Pour remaining ¼ cup oil over top.

Harissa can be made 1 month ahead. Cover and chill.

Makes about 1½ cups.