Lobster Thermidor (French)

Lobster Thermidor is a classic French lobster preparation that was very popular in upscale restaurants during the early to mid-1920’s. Lobster Thermidor is said to be named by Napoleon after the month he first ate it. The month of Thermidor, according to the French Revolutionary calendar, was July 19 to August 17. According to Lorousse Gastronomique, however, the dish was first prepared in 1894 at Maire’s Restaurant in Paris. The dish was named in honour of the premiere of Victorien Sardou’s play, "Thermidor", which was playing at the theatre Comédie Française, near which the restaurant was located.

Lobster Thermidor is a very decadent dish which seems simple. However, when served in restaurants it was (and is) quite expensive, not only because of the cost of lobster but because of the many steps required to make it. This is not to say it is difficult to make. It is simply time-consuming. In the dish, cooked pieces of lobster are mixed into a rich béchamel or heavy cream based sauce to which Dijon mustard, white wine, shallots, tarragon, lobster stock, and cheese, such as Gruyère or Parmesan. Mushrooms, truffles, or spinach are sometimes used, and there are many variations. The lobster and sauce mixture is spooned back into the shells, whether the tail of American lobster or spiny lobster, topped with more cheese, and broiled to a golden brown. Sometimes crab and shrimp are prepared in a Thermidor style also.

Lobster Stock:
3 cups white wine
2 cups water
1 large onion, cut in quarters
1 medium carrot, cut in quarters
1 rib celery, cut in quarters
small bunch parsley
1 bay leaf
¼ tsp. dried thyme
6 peppercorns
1 Tbsp. fresh tarragon, chopped
2 (2 lb) live lobsters

Mushrooms:
½ lb fresh mushrooms, sliced
1 Tbsp. butter
1 tsp. lemon juice, freshly squeezed
¼ tsp. sea salt

Sauce:
5 Tbsp. + 4 Tbsp. butter
6 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, unbleached
1 Tbsp. + ½ cup cream, separated
1 Tbsp. dry mustard
2 egg yolks
1 pinch ground cayenne pepper
⅓ cup cognac
½ cup Parmesan or Gruyère cheese, grated

Steaming the Lobsters:
In a large pot (that will fit 2 large lobsters), simmer wine, water, vegetables, herbs, and seasonings for 15 minutes. Then bring to a rolling boil and add the live lobsters. Cover and boil for about 20 minutes or until the lobsters are done and turn bright red.

For the Mushrooms:
While the lobsters are steaming, stew the mushrooms slowly in a pan with the 1 Tbsp. butter, lemon juice, and salt for about 10 minutes until then begin to soften.

For the Sauce:
When the lobsters are done, remove them from the pot and put over ice. You can fill your sink with ice and put the lobsters right in to cool down.

Save the mushroom cooking liquid and add that to the lobster stock. Bring to a boil until it has reduced to about 2 cups. (This is amazing lobster stock). Strain the stock through a sieve and discard vegetables and herbs and allow stock to stay at a simmer.

In another pot, cook 5 Tbsp. butter and 6 Tbsp. flour slowly for 2 minutes without browning. Take off heat and whisk in the lobster stock. Bring to a boil while whisking for 1 minute until it gets thick. Take off heat and whisk in 1 Tbsp. heavy cream. Set aside.

In another bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, dry mustard, ½ cup heavy cream and pinch of cayenne. Add the reserved cream mixture (that is sitting on the stove) to the egg mixture. Add it slowly while whisking and then return sauce to the pan. Stir the sauce every so often with a wooden spoon. Bring sauce to a boil for 2 minutes and then simmer. You want the sauce thick enough to coat the back of the wooden spoon. Taste for seasoning.

Sautéing the Lobster Meat:
Split the lobsters in half lengthwise, keeping the shell halves intact and remove the meat from the lobster tails and claws, and cut it into ½" pieces. Clean the lobster shells well and dry them. Reserve shells.

In another pan, sauté lobster meat with 4 Tbsp. butter for about 5 minutes until the lobster meats turns a dark rosy colour. Pour in the cognac carefully and bring to a boil to cook off the alcohol while shaking the pan. The liquid should reduce.

Final Assembly:
Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C/200°C fan, Gas Mark 7).

In a large pan or bowl, mix together the mushrooms, lobster sauce and lobster meat.

On a baking sheet, place the 4 lobster shell halves down and wrap the bottom part of the shell with tin foil. This will help the shelves stay in place.

Use the wooden spoon to scoop the lobster mixture into the shells. Don't over fill. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese on top and place in the upper 1/3 of oven. Allow to cook for 10-15 minutes until the top begins to brown.

Makes 4 servings.