Mussels with Saffron Crème Fraîche (French La Mouclade Vendéene)

Tradition has it that the farming of mussels in the Vendée, south of the Loire, dates back to 1237, when an Irish sea captain was shipwrecked on the coast. He managed to swim ashore and set bird traps in the water. The sticks supporting the nets were soon covered with huge moules (mussels), much larger than those growing on the rocks. Even now, mussels are still cultivated on stakes in much the same way.

On part of the Atlantic coast, moucle is the local name for mussel, and a mouclade can be made in many ways, with or without spices, some with cream. Here, a good pinch of saffron (be sure to use saffron threads rather than powder) perfumes the wine sauce and colours it a vivid gold. As a first course, serve the mussels with a spoon and lots of crusty bread to soak up the sauce. For a main course, add crisp pommes frites - memorable when dipped in the salty mussel-flavoured sauce. The local white wine used in this recipe would be a Muscadet, light and dry.

6 lbs fresh mussels (2.7 kg)
1 cup dry white wine (250 mL)
3 Tbsp. butter
3 onions, chopped (~ 1 lb/450 g total)
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 pinch cayenne pepper
sea salt
black pepper, freshly ground
2 Tbsp. cognac, more to taste
1 large pinch saffron threads, soaked in 2-3 Tbsp. boiling water
½ cup crème fraîche or heavy cream (125 mL)

Beurre Manié:
3 Tbsp. butter (45 g)
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, unbleached (22 g)

Clean the Mussels:
Put them in a large pot and pour in the wine. Cover and cook over high heat, stirring once, until they open, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mussels with a draining spoon to a warmed bowl, cover, and keep warm. Reserve the cooking liquid.

For the Sauce:
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until soft and lightly browned, 8-10 minutes. Stir in the garlic, cayenne pepper, and a little black pepper and cook for another 30 seconds. Stir in the Cognac and the saffron with its liquid. Pour the reserved mussel liquid into the onions, leaving any grit behind.

To Thicken the Sauce:
Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer for 1-2 minutes until well flavoured.

For the Beurre Manié:
Crush the butter on a plate with a fork and work in the flour to form a soft paste. Whisk the paste into the simmering liquid a piece or two at a time until the sauce coats a spoon lightly. You may not need all of the paste. Whisk in the crème fraîche, bring the sauce to a boil, and simmer for 1-2 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with black pepper, cayenne pepper, and Cognac; salt may not be needed, as the mussels are salty.

Pile the mussels in warmed soup bowls, spoon the sauce over them, and serve at once, very hot.

Makes 4 servings.