Scallops and Mushrooms with Wine Cream Sauce (French Coquilles St-Jacques à la Normande)

Although coquilles St-Jacques simply means "scallops" in French, in the idiom of American cooks, the term is synonymous with the old French dish of scallops poached in white wine, placed atop a purée of mushrooms in a scallop shell, covered with a sauce made of the scallop poaching liquid, and gratinéed under a broiler. This rich, classic recipe was a signature dish of most of the small French restaurants in Montreal and New York in the late 1970s. These days, most chefs, have moved away somewhat from that dish, favouring lighter preparations. But I believe truly good food never really goes out of style.

8 oz button mushrooms, minced
6 Tbsp. butter
3 small shallots, minced
2 Tbsp. fresh parsley, minced
1 Tbsp. fresh tarragon, minced
sea salt
black pepper, freshly ground
1 cup dry white wine or ¾ cup dry vermouth
1 bay leaf
6 large sea scallops
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, unbleached
½ cup heavy cream
2⁄3 cup Gruyère cheese, grated
½ tsp. lemon juice, freshly squeezed

Garnish:
6 whole tarragon leaves

Heat mushrooms, 4 Tbsp. butter, and 2⁄3 of the shallots in a 4 qt saucepan over medium heat; cook until the mixture forms a loose paste, about 25 minutes.

Stir parsley and minced tarragon into mushroom mixture; season with salt and pepper. Divide mixture among 6 cleaned scallop shells or shallow gratin dishes.

Bring remaining shallots, vermouth, bay leaf, salt, and 3⁄4 cup water to a boil in a 4 qt saucepan over medium heat. Add scallops; cook until barely tender, about 2 minutes.

Remove scallops; place each over mushrooms in shells. Continue boiling cooking liquid until reduced to 1⁄2 cup, about 10 minutes; strain.

Preheat broiler to high.

Heat remaining butter in a 2 qt saucepan over medium heat. Add flour; cook until smooth, about 2 minutes. Add reduced cooking liquid and cream; cook until thickened, about 8 minutes. Add cheese, juice, salt, and pepper; divide the sauce over scallops.

Broil until browned on top, about 3 minutes; garnish each with a tarragon leaf.

Makes 6 servings.