Cod Coconut Chowder

Too often fish chowder is heavy, gloppy, and one-note. Not this guy. Coconut milk and lots of zippy aromatics bring life to the dish. And though you may think oyster crackers can't be improved upon, you'll change your mind when you try them extra-buttery and smothered in paprika.

1½ lb cod or halibut fillets, skinless, boneless
2½ tsp. sea salt, divided, plus more
5 Tbsp. ghee or unsalted butter, divided
2 medium leeks, white and pale green parts only, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 (3") piece ginger, peeled, cut into matchsticks
¾ tsp. ground turmeric
¾ tsp. ground coriander
½ tsp. ground cardamom
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced
12 oz baby Yukon Gold or red potatoes, halved
2 (13.5 oz) cans unsweetened coconut milk
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced
1½ cups oyster crackers
1 tsp. ground paprika
1 lime, freshly squeezed

Garnish:
celery leaves

To Serve:
crackers
1 lime, cut into wedges

Season cod all over with 1½ tsp. sea salt; set aside. Heat 3 Tbsp. ghee in a medium Dutch oven over medium. Cook leeks, garlic, and ginger, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes. Add turmeric, coriander and cardamom and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add chile, potatoes, coconut milk, 1 tsp. salt and ¾ cup water; bring to a boil (still over medium). Immediately reduce heat so soup is at a bare simmer. Cover, leaving lid slightly askew, and cook until potatoes are barely fork-tender, 10-12 minutes.

Carefully nestle reserved fish into pot, spoon some broth over and cover, leaving lid slightly askew. Cook at a bare simmer 4 minutes, then stir in celery. Cook until fish is opaque and flakes easily, about 5 minutes. Taste chowder and season with more salt if needed.

Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 Tbsp. ghee in a small skillet over medium-low. Add crackers and stir well to coat. Cook, stirring often, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add paprika; toss to evenly coat.

Add the lime juice into the chowder. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Ladle into bowls, breaking fish into large pieces. Scatter celery leaves over chowder, if using and top with crackers. Serve with lime wedges alongside.

Makes 4 servings.