Gumbo Z'Herbes (New Orleans)

The tradition behind Gumbo z'Herbes is that it was usually made on Holy Thursday for consumption on Good Friday. Since Good Friday was (and still is) a day of fasting and abstinence from meat for Catholics, something meatless had to be prepared for dinner. Catholics in New Orleans normally had no difficulties with the Church's no-meat-on-Fridays rule, since we have such an abundance of seafood in the area. Good Friday was a bit different, however, since it is also a day of fasting. The regular Friday seafood feast had to be toned down dramatically in keeping with the spirit of the day. This traditionally Lenten dish is based on loads of greens, but at other times of the year will also include ham, sausages, meats, and meat stock.

1 bunch mustard greens
1 bunch collard greens
1 bunch turnip greens
1 bunch watercress
1 bunch beet tops
1 bunch carrot tops
1 bunch spinach
½ head lettuce
½ head cabbage
2 medium onions, chopped (about 3 cups)
4 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped
5 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, unbleached
1 lb smoked sausage
1 lb smoked ham
1 lb brisket, cubed
1 lb stew meat
1 lb hot sausage, chaurice
1 tsp. thyme leaves
1 tsp. ground cayenne pepper
1 tsp. file powder

To Serve:
steamed rice

Start by cleaning the greens under cold running water while at the same time picking out the bad, dry leaves. Coarsely chop up the greens, transfer to a 12 qt stockpot and add to it onions and garlic. Cover with 1½ gallons of water and bring to a boil, then let it simmer covered for 30 minutes. When done, strain the greens and reserve the liquid.

Proceed by cutting all the meat, except for the chaurice, into 1" pieces. Combine the cut up meat with 2 cups of reserved liquid in a 12 qt stockpot and steam over high heat for 15 minutes.

While that is steaming, cut up the chaurice into 1" pieces and by cooking them in a skillet over high heat for 10 minutes let render. Set aside the chaurice.

Add the flour to the heated up skillet of chaurice grease, and cook it for five minutes to get the roux, which does not have to be brown. Pour that roux over the meat mixture and stir.

Next, add the greens that you've puréed and 2 qts of reserved liquid, then simmer over low heat for 20 minutes. Continue by adding chaurice, thyme and cayenne, stir, season and simmer for another 40 minutes.

Lastly, stir in the file powder and remove from the heat. To be served over steamed rice.

Makes 8 servings.